Estrella to Los Arcos (Wednesday)

 Happy birthday Ron! 

Dick and I spent a few moments in the morning before we left deciding what the focus of the day would be.  We have met so many amazing people, all with one purpose on a shared journey, and it is such a gift to see everyone not only get along, but offer to help, encourage, and share love and laughter.  We decided our focus today would be prayers for our country and the world, to break down barriers and live together in peace.  And to reflect our own peace in Jesus to others who crossed our path.

It was a beautiful morning, but quite chilly, so once again we went through the “Will I need it?  Do I want to carry it?  Rain gear?  Wind shirt?  Short sleeves?  Long sleeves?”  Funny how you make decisions when you know it will be in your pack all day long.  And get heavier as you go.  

As we began our walk, we heard beautiful singing behind us.  It was our friends Charlotte and Sydney, who we had met a few days before as we were searching for dinner.  We had asked if they spoke English and were met with laughter as they informed us they are from the US.  (Dinner was delicious). It was obvious they have trained voices, and their singing was so joyful!  They have been friends - and singing and performing together since kindergarten.  What a wonderful way to start our day!

Walking along the sidewalks of the city, we were checking the sky and hoping it would not rain, when sure enough, Lu, Barb and I felt rain.  No!  But it wasn’t rain, just a vigorous sprinkler!  Our walk continues through Navarra, which is wine country, and soon we came across the infamous Irache wine fountain.  The plaque on the wall at the wine fountain reads: 

“Pilgrim, if you wish to arrive at Santiago full of strength and vitality, have a drink of this great wine and make a toast to happiness.”  So of course we did.

Looking for a cafe for breakfast, we stopped at a campground with a cafeteria.  Practically deserted since, just like in the US, the summer vacation season has not started.  But the coffee was hot, and with our usual foresight ( and love of pastry) we had loaded up on Dona españolas.  It was a good stop.  

The rain held off, and we passed through beautiful fields of winter wheat, and lots of vineyards.  The vines are meticulously pruned and espaliered, with not a weed in sight.  The base of some of the vines were almost for inches in diameter.  I love speculating about the farmer who planted them, and the ensuing generations of tender care.  I wish I could see vignettes of the history of some of the places we walk by, the ancient stone walls, shrines, cisterns and stables.  Who built them?  Who lived there?  What were their lives like?

We stopped frequently to adjust shoes, rest knees and eat oranges and patatas fritas.  Yes, potato chips!  They are so yummy, salty and crunchy, and so many flavors..Jim picked up a bag of “egg”flavored patatas, which everyone except Ron loved.  He grew up on a poultry farm, and thinks they smell like old eggs.  Well maybe, but good nevertheless!

Mid afternoon we stopped at a food truck, again in the middle of nowhere.  This one offered fresh hummus and vegetables, a nice change from the hearty but monotonous ham and cheese sandwiches (which are actually Barb’s favorites!). The gentleman stamping our credentials turned out to be from Canada.  He even has a Dutch name - Wes Koop!  We asked how he ended up here in Spain, and he told us he is a volunteer with Greater European Mission (GEM). He and his wife came to Spain 6 years ago, and met some folks who owned a cafe.  Four years ago, the owners decided to sell, and encouraged them to purchase the cafe.  So after much prayer they did so, and moved here permanently.  We were very moved by their story and mission, and ended up praying together and received a blessing from them.  And God said..”I told you!”

Met Joon Euán from Korea, traveling the Camino by herself.  She asked us if we had met other Koreans, the answer is yes.  Apparently there is a large Catholic contingent in Korea.  She said she did not see them, because most Koreans are very ambitious and get up early and hurry up the trail.  “But I myself am lazy”. Any one walking the Camino is NOT lazy!

We have been passed frequently by cyclists as well, now those people are crazy!  Sometimes we can barely crawl up an incline, and they keep in biking.  They are also a pretty rude bunch, they come blowing by on the narrow trail and are angry you don’t move over.  I’m sorry, get yourself a bell!

Made it to Los Arcos about 4:30 after traveling 5 miles over and over and over.  Jim has been the trail navigator, and every so often he will announce “about five more miles”.  No matter where we are and when we ask, it is about 5 miles.  Or maybe five kilometers as we get near the town.  I guess it is better to be closer than you think than to find out you actually have another five miles to cover…

Nice house tonight with three bedrooms for us.  Tomorrow we will be taking a taxi to Logroño for the first of three days of rest.  Except for Jim.  He thinks he has another five miles in him, and wants to walk one more leg of the journey.  He has our blessing, but is going it alone!

To the local square for dinner, and sadly say good bye to many of the friends we have met along the way.  Some are going home (Logroño seems to be a popular stopping off point).  Some will continue walking.  We are taking a shortcut to Burgos where we will resume our walk to Santiago to finish the pilgrimage.

                                    Ron’s birthday treat, an ice cream bar!  And the evening menu…

Top photo- Katherine, nurse midwife and NP from Kentucky.  Note the black eye, she was one of the women blown off the mountain the first day on the climb to Roncessvalles.  
Lower photo: three members of the Cork Walking Club, a group of  8 women who were absolutely hilarious, we connected most days of the walk.  Note Mary’s black eyes, she also made the traumatic trip over the edge.  When asked if she wanted to quit after it happened she replied tartly “Didn’t ‘ave much choice then, did I?  No taxi handy fer sure!”  

The Cork Club are going home to Cork County,   Ireland from Logroño, they are quite impressed we are continuing on. “But then it’s costly for you to come back isn’t it.  We are close and come from time to time, cheap for sure.  Might as well save a bit your way!”

So we have now completed over 100 miles.  And made about a hundred friends.  Feeling quite proud of ourselves!  And while we have aches and pains, we have all gotten a lot stronger.  We can even carry on conversations on inclines!

My Apple Watch for today, and  Lu’s pedometer for the past seven days.  (The first day was Bayonne, we started the Camino on Friday)